This week on Osprey.   
Sporty sailing on the nose, lumpy seas,  Our first real gale warning, can we find a port in a storm. Plus we totally embarrass ourselves infront of the whole town…

Leaving Plymouth our next stop was Fowey (pronounced Foy). The forecast was for S S/E but it turned out to be SW meaning a beat to Fowey. We had about 20-25kn so we fancied a bit of a bash as we had yet to really heel the boat or feel we had truly sailed her. So we put in 1 reef in the mainsail and set the staysail in precaution for stronger weather.

We had a great sail despite needing to tack. Our big headsail has to be furled to tack so we used the staysail instead and she carried us along at 7kn no problems.

The coast of the UK creates a very lumpy sea so it wasn’t smooth sailing but was still pleasant. The roughest part was the entry into the harbour which had a large backwash. About an hour before we arrived a gale warning was issued over the radio and we could see a small band of roll clouds on the horizon.

Not like a roll cloud we get in Aus but one still to avoid so we were happy to arrive in Fowey. We weren’t 💯 sure of a berthing in Fowey as there are no anchorages and all the information suggests the moorings and jetties are not suitable for boats over 15m. We are 17m but with a gale warning present we decided to wing it.

Thankfully we found a half empty visitors  jetty moored  2nm up the river opposite a clay factory. It wasnt a pretty location but the jetty looked strong and it was the only option open to us. The only access ashore is by water taxi or your own dinghy and no power or water. We saw a few visitor moorings however we had no information on how strong they were and the boats already on them were riding the swell like a bucking bronco.

It was an easy landing although the jetty was very bouncy so not ideal to be leaping onto with gusto. Thankfully Tony didnt need to leap as someone was on hand to help. Within a very short while more boats arrived and the jetty was full.

The next morning we decided to head into town to try and get some supplies. Most of the towns we have been visiting are all touristy so we haven’t found a good supermarket for 2-3 weeks. It was raining as usual so we called a water taxi. Who told us he didn’t operate in the rain…
I finished splicing a new anchor bridle and making some soft shackles out of scrap dyneema  I found in one of the many chandleries we now frequent. Splicing is a very satisfying skill that very few people do  anymore, I love it.
Tony couldn’t bear the idea of being stuck onboard all day in the rain so when the weather brightened up around 5pm we launched the dinghy and headed into the dinghy jetty.
We found an amazing Pizza restaurant for dinner with great cocktails, and amazing Burrata and we shared a funghi pizza it made the day for us.
Fowey is quiet steep so the hills are useful for trying to get fitter. 

A rook with a book, one of the many art pieces around the town. There was an art exibition on at the time which we would have loved to explore however, everything was closed  as the wet weather had sent everybody home and  the shops were all shut.

The houses along the river bank were extremely interesting, all very unique and an eclectic mix of residential and commercial as well as plenty of sailing clubs. Each property has its own stairs and jetty down to the water. All the little vessels are kept on  roped moorings just metres from the steps.

Each harbour along the east coast has its own designed version of day sailing boats and it is surprising to see how many of these old boats are still racing today. the active sailing clubs have racing most nights through the summer and anyone is welcome to come and join in. Just not on the days we were there.

Amongst our shopping that we did find open was a little general store with an enormous selection of local Gins. Ever keen to support local business we felt obliged to try at least two, after a little tasting. 

The Caspyn Gin is made with local coastal botanicals ie seaweed and was very acceptable, however our favourite by far was the local Fowey Gin which was made from potatoes and very resonably priced. we had finished off the bottle of Salcombe gin that Oliver had gifted to us when he arrived so we felt it appropriate to try an dbuild a selection.  This trip is rapidly turning into a Gin tour, wth nearly every town making their own version.

We stayed 2 nights in Fowey and  left  for Falmouth in truly sporty conditions. Getting off the jetty was a feat in itself as we were now jammed in tight with no room front or back to move with a 25kn breeze blowing us on. The jetty was costing £40 per night without any power or water so we needed to keep moving.

We left the jetty with some assistance thankfully there were plenty of skilled line handlers around as everyone was trapped on their boats We needed to swing out using the wind and current to turn 90 degrees before letting go the jetty. This is where I love having a bow thruster, In my previous  lighter displacement Bavaria I would drive the bow on and kick the stern out but the Oyster was having none of that so we tied a stern line on put a fender on the back corner and bow thrusted out. The linehandlers on the jetty just flicked the line off and we left. My confidence at that point was way up there. As we left another boat had just come in and took our spot within seconds.

A few comments were made about whether we should be leaving  as the weather was still abating. I was keen to test out Osprey for times when we might be stuck out at sea riding a gale.

As I knew the entrance to the harbour would be very lumpy I decided raising the mainsail in the harbour would be a safer option. This required a skill set that perhaps we weren’t quiet ready for as the only availble space to turn head to wind is in the background of this photo. We needed to put two reefs in which we hadn’t done in quick succesion before. So there was some level of robust communication and public embarrasment before we achieved this.

The entrance to Fowey is not the narrowest harbour I’ve been in but as is normal in this region it has a level of tide running, the apropriate number of rocks and shallows, which all work together to create vertical standing waves when the weather is in the wrong direction. We could see those waves from this standpoint.
Whilst looking at the rolling waves I was trying to circle the boat and hold her head to wind in some violent multi directional gusts whilst missing moorings, taxis  were constantly whizzing across the harbour, confused by our sudden directional changes.
Tony was working on getting the main up and the reefs in and somehow we managed to get the battens completely the wrong side of the lazy jacks. I was suggesting he move faster and he was suggesting I hold the boat still and long enough so he could work the battens past the lazy jacks. Sounds easy and just when we almost got it all together along came a ferry who was insistent we move out his way. The main went up and down at least 4 times.
All this occured in front of the town centre where a number of fishermen, tourists and a competely full pub were avidly watching in amusement. About 45 minutes later we got our …. together and the main was set and we were ready to motor out the harbour.

Feeling very embarrased about our mainsail debacle I was keen to leave Fowey asap,  we motored out the harbour without any further issues. Until we met those vertical standing waves. We got a true pounding but im pleased to say we didnt break the crystal. More on that next week….